Improvement in collars



l. T. BRUEN.

Collars. N0. 134,638, Pafent edlan.7;1873.

AM PHOTO-LITHUERAPHIG (IQ/VI (OSSOHNES P501735) UNITED JOHN T. BRUEN, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

IMPROVEMENT IN COLLARS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 13%638, dated J anuary 7, 1873.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN T. BRUEN, of the city of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented certain Improvements in Collars, of which the following is a specification:

My invention relates more particularly to paper or combined muslin and paper collars, but is applicable to collars made of other materials; and consists in a collar having gores in the neckband on either side of the central button-hole to make the collar adapt itself to the neck without cramping. The invention also consists in a collar having its la-pels out from the neck-band in' such manner as to produce gores in the band. This utilizes material, that otherwise would be neck-band waste, to form the gores, and, in addition, gives the collar a better fit, especially deep-fold collars. Such improvement, therefore, makes a better collar at a less cost.

In the accompanying drawing, Figure 1 represents a collar-blank cut in accordance with my invention; Fig. 2, an interior face view of the same after the lapels have been turned over or pasted down; Fig. 3, an inside face View of a finished collar; and Fig. 4, an outside face view of the same.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts.

Ais the neck-band portion of the collar havin g a central button-hole, s, and B the outside portion of the collar. 0 O are the lapels, which are formed by cutting the neck-band as represented in Fig. 1, and then turning over or pastin g them down in an endwise direction on the inside of the band, as illustrated in Fig. 2; or said lapels may be wholly detached and be afterward pasted. or otherwise secured to the neck-band. The lapels thus cut leave gores b b, which make the collar fit the neck without cramping, and which, in producing the lapels, are made without waste of the material in the neck-band.

I do not restrict myself to any particular shape or size of the gores and lapels. V

The edge 0 of the neckband is of a salient curvature corresponding or approximating to the outer or bottom edge 01 of the collar, so that, with the exception of a trifling waste atthe ends, a number of collars maybe cut in succession from the same strip Without waste, by reason of the out to form the edge cof the one collar answeringto form the edge d of the next collar. The fold-line of the collar is at e. The ends of the collar may also be cut or made to fold over intern all y at f, to avoid a raw edge at the ends, or said ends may be left clear-that is, without a fold.

The button-holes g in the lapels are strengthened by a patch, D, of cloth or other suitable material. Each of these patches is formed with an extension, h, which is shaped and arranged to cross the fold-line e in proximity to the end of the collar, whereby the fold is prevented from breaking or severing at the ends of the collar.

What is here claimed, and desired to be secured by Letters Patent, is-- 1. A collar formed with gores in the neck band on eitherside of the central button-hole of the collar, substantially as specified.

2. A collar having its lapels cut from the edge of the neck-band in such manner as to leave gores in the latter, substantially as spec ified.

J NO. TH. BRUEN.

Witnesses:

HENRY '1. BROWN, MICHAEL RYAN. 

